Winds were 20+ knots in our face as we entered the remote
atoll (island) reef girded pass opening into Suwarrow. Suwarrow’s anchorage area was densely
strewn, polka-dotted, with dark coral heads – “bommies.” Depths ranged from a reasonable 10
meters (30’) to a lot deeper than we’d want to dive to unwedge our chain if
coral-caught. The seven
boats already anchored were closely clustered in the 10 meter areas.
Due to the wind, there was a lot of chop, hobby-horsing
(rocking) our boat in a jerky motion from fore to aft. That, the coral, the tight anchorage
and (our past disaster with our bow anchor roller platform) makes anchoring and
taking off from anchoring particularly stressful. Plus, we’d just spent the last six days sailing, 24/7, 660
nautical miles from Maupiti, French Polynesia to Suwarrow, Cook Islands. We were tired and more than ready for
some R&R.
Wayne found a good anchoring spot, positioned our boat into
the wind and gave me the word to drop anchor.
Quick as a wink I smoothly let the anchor down, sighing in
relief, watching it land in a nice sandy patch, 25-30 feet down. The water was that clear. We drifted into position as we let out
the extra chain scope, totaling 100 feet, to give us room for easy movement
without tugging at our anchor. And
then…
“We’re too close to Firefly. Bring it up,” Capt. Wayne requested. It’s best to stay at least a couple of
boat lengths away from other boats in an anchorage, as wind and waves shift
boats’ positions. Worse, in high
winds, sometimes boats may “drag,” moving as their anchor unseats itself
underwater.
Wayne carefully moved the boat toward the anchor as I
brought it up with our windlass.
It wasn’t quite out of the water, when, suddenly…
Bang! Splash!
Our bow anchor roller exploded off our boat, rapidly
descending into the water.
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Not a pretty sight. Our bow anchor roller said bye-bye in a dramatic way -- again! |
“S---! Wayne! Our anchor roller platform’s gone! I swear it wasn’t my fault!” I
exclaimed.
Ever since our last anchoring disaster, clearly my fault,
I’ve struggled to improve my technique whilst we deal with challenging
conditions and changing anchor roller setups. Who likes to be the cause of dangerous and expensive boat
problems? Certainly not me! Yet I have. All it takes is a split second of stupidity and the damage is
done. And more times than I care
to admit, I am guilty as charged, and admit it, albeit reluctantly. This time, though, it was simply
circumstantial. At least I believe
so.
Quickly, Wayne came to the bow to figure out what to do,
while I took over the helm. Wayne
rigged up a temporary line to hold
us where we were.
![]() |
Drew of Firefly, freedives for our bow anchor roller. Talented guy, not at all concerned about the local blacktip sharks in Suwarrow's anchorage. |
“I’m going to have to SCUBA dive for it,” Wayne said, ruefully. “After the wind and water calms down. “
Did I mention Suwarrow’s anchorage area is rife with
sharks? Adventurous as we are, we
are among those who do not normally relish swimming with sharks.
“At least this time the anchor roller is still attached to
our chain. It should just be
there, I can just follow our chain right down to it” he added, more
optimistically. “And the water
this time is clear, unlike the muck in Hiva Oa [last time we had an
issue]. Do you have everything
here to fix it?” I asked.
Yes, he replied.
“This time I’m bolting it all the way through the fiberglass and sealing
it. The wood is rotten; that’s why
it didn’t hold. It should hold this
time [until we fix it more thoroughly when we get to New Zealand].”
![]() |
Drew of Firefly hands up our heavy bow roller, which he retrieved. |
We were a bit closer to Firefly than before we attempted
re-anchoring. Fortunately we know
Drew and Shelly of Firefly well, and trust each other to work together and keep
our boats safe. And our oversized
Rocna anchor – if not our anchor platform – is very solid.
“What, besides
not spraying ourselves with WD40 [a fish oil as well as a lubricant] do we need
to do for sharks not to be a problem while we retrieve our bow roller?” we
mused, a bit nervously.
The wind continued to blow hard. The water remained choppy. More boats arrived, making the anchorage more cozy…. We delayed some more….
“Knock. Knock.”
It was late morning, our third day at Suwarrow. We were –ahem – busily engaged in adult
activities aboard. Wayne hastily
made himself presentable and exited our boat’s cabin.
![]() |
Temporary fix in place for our bow anchor roller, thanks to Wayne. |
“Do you have a rope?” asked a finned, masked and snorkeled
Drew. “I can free dive to 60
feet,” he’d volunteered the night before, when we discussed our as yet
unaddressed sunken bow roller.
Wayne gave Drew some line, and with a smart tuck and flip of his
flippers, lickety split, he surfaced, roller in his outstretched hand. Wayne promptly rope secured it, to hold
it for bolting down later.
And there weren’t even any sharks about, despite their many
prior visits.
Meanwhile, fingers crossed for the next three months or so
until the entire bow platform area is rebuilt in New Zealand.
![]() |
Adding fender buoys to our chain made pulling anchor in Suwarrow far easier than dropping anchor was! |
Location Location
Our bow anchor roller broke and this post was written while
we were in Suwarrow, Cook Islands (S13.14.907 W163.06.470). This blog put into blog format in Pago Pago, American Samoa (S14.16.472 W170.40.456), and pre-set to post while we're underway to Nuiataputapu (or "new potato" for the linguistically challenged) Tonga, our first stop in Tonga.
Even in 24+ knot winds in Pago Pago, our anchoring system behaved. Fingers crossed it did so bringing up our anchor, exiting Pago Pago after a week and a half.
Wifi is sparse in Tonga, which will affect blog post frequency off and on until New Zealand in November.
Even in 24+ knot winds in Pago Pago, our anchoring system behaved. Fingers crossed it did so bringing up our anchor, exiting Pago Pago after a week and a half.
Wifi is sparse in Tonga, which will affect blog post frequency off and on until New Zealand in November.
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