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Honestly,
these whimsical graffiti versions of Huahine's blue-eyed eels were more charming that the real deal. |
“Where
the heck are they? Are they just pulling our leg? HOLY CRAP!
There's one right here and it's HUGE!” I exclaimed, urging Wayne
over to see it.
Several
guidebooks extolled the wonder of the sacred blue-eyed eels, in the
river of Faie on Huahine. Intrigued, we rented a scooter traversing
the island to find them.
I'd
envisioned a broad meandering river, fecund in a jungle setting,
something we could wade into or swim, teeming with eels, maybe a foot
or two long. We didn't expect “the river” to be essentially a
steep walled, shallow-filled concrete drainage ditch. It was.
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It
was tough to get decent photos as we were several feet above them, and the water above them was clear, but very reflective. |
The
first eel I saw was about 5-6 feet long, and plump, at least a half a
foot wide, and practically bulging out of the shallow water as it
undulated along.
Scanning
the water, Wayne found a cluster of a dozen or so, just poking their
heads out from under a ledge. Much like the iguanas and sea lions of
Galapagos, they formed a big puppy pile, jostling amongst each other.
Unlike the more amiable Galapagos communes, these fishy fellas
snapped at each other. Indeed, their tiny, glassy-looking eyes were
azure blue; a definite contrast to their mud-colored bodies.
Huahine
is worth a visit not for the blue-eyed eels, but for its laid-back
charm, stunningly beautiful waters, interesting archaeological sites
and friendly locals. Sure, check out the eels; we're grateful they
inspired us to get a good look at my favorite of the Society Islands
to date.
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Chairs set up for Huahine's Heiva Festival outrigger races. Anchorage outside the town of Fare in the background. |
Location
Location
We
anchored outside Huahine's most populous town, Fare (S16.42.943
W151.02.321) and left there this morning. We're currently anchored in
Tahaa's Haamene Bay, French Polynesia(S16.38.713 W151.27.404) on our
way to Bora Bora. That will be our last stop before our 90 day visa
expires July 21st. Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in
American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set
several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet
permitting.
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