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Thursday, July 30, 2015

Marvelous Motus of Maupiti


My trusty West Marine kayak was the perfect choice to reach
the motu nearest our Maupiti anchorage.  The other two kayaks
were from pension guests on that same motu.

Maupiti, one of French Polynesia’s less visited Society Islands, is ringed by protective reefs and paradise postcard little islets known as motus.  Motus are small islets that were  formed on the coral reef encircling the lagoon (click here to learn more about the difference between an island, an atoll and a motu).

This Maupiti motu has its own lagoon, u-shaped, with
the tide flowing in on one side, and out the other.
With more of a “go fast” dinghy than ours, or a second kayak, we’d have spent more time exploring Muapiti’s motus. 
 



We toyed with camping on a Maupiti motu, and instead were dissuaded by getting in some last minute internet before our wifi hiatus and then later by some wet, blustery weather.  Somewhere down the road we’re due for a motu all to ourselves, where we plan to work on eliminating our tan lines and enjoying sunset and sunrise from our nearby tent.



View from the Maupiti motu beach across the lagoon.
In the distance on the left is another motu, on the right
is the “mainland” of Maupiti.



Location Location
Written in Maupiti, our last stop in French Polynesia (S16.26.838 W152.14.690) and set to post while we’re underway on an 1,100+ mile passage to Pago Pago, American Samoa.  We hope to stop for some R&R at Suwarrow in the Cook Islands along the way, though we expect no wifi in that remote location.

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Beer Bling for the Birthday Boy

Wayne's birthday hat and shirt from
Papeete Tahiti's Hinano clearance store.
Wayne is not the kind of guy who goes for prominent logos, and the idea of paying to advertise for someone is definitely out of character for him.

For every rule there's an exception.  

Still, I was surprised when Wayne asked me for a Hinano t-shirt for his birthday.

Cool and refereshing, Hinano is the sole locally brewed beer in French Polynesia.  There are other beers sold; Heinken the most prevalent.

There wasn't much in his sizein t-shirts at the store, and what there was wasn't suitable.  The Papeete Tahiti Hinano store is a clearance shop; no returns.  Instead, Wayne got a button-down shirt and hat.  He was a a happy birthday boy. 


... en stock de brasserie de tahiti hinano 33cl 3 50 eur la hinano
Hinano beer, made in Tahiti.

Location Location

By the time this posts we expect to be on our way to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting. When in Tahiti we stayed primarily at the city marina in Papeete  (S17.32.393 W149.34.219).


Saturday, July 25, 2015

Bora Bora - Beautiful or Overblown?

View of Bora Bora's iconic saddle-shaped Mt.Otemanu
from our anchorage
.  A rare ray of sunshine on this
typically cloudy peak
.
We blew in to legendary Bora Bora with a 25 knot headwind on our nose and gratefully accepted a mooring ball at the amazingly affordable MaiKai Marina.  Normally, we anchor, but much of Bora Bora's lagoons are over 80 feet deep -- too deep for us to feel comfortable -- or dangerously shallow and dotted with boat--eating coral heads.






Muddy road of Bora Bora's big town of Viatape. No sidewalks.
This is the "dry season."
Locals and tourist alike dot \Bora Bora's Matira Beach.
Nice but not any more special than Bahamas or BVI beaches.
We were surprised that
  • Bora Bora is wet -- not quite what we'd seen in postcards!
  • Everything* was more expensive, more than Galapagos, Tahiti, Marquesas, Moorea (though for $50/week for a well maintained mooring ball is a killer deal in our book - Mai Kai Marina is a notable exception).
  • The paved roads were in the worst shape we've seen on any island., though we suspect it's because they're laying pipe under the road and will then repave.
  • We saw more garbage here than we've seen anywhere since Panama.
  • Community buses are all over but reserved for cruise ship passengers and school children though we've seen plenty of those busses empty.
This overlook on Bora Bora was only about 100 yards from the view below.
 
This is by far the best view we saw on our island scooter circumnavigation.  We hear the view from the motus which form the outside of Bora Bora's lagoon are more spectacular.
 

Glassy anchorage view,Bora Bora.  Good thing I took it quic
- it rained shortly after.
*Examples of Bora-flation
  • Scooters were $64 for 4 hours; it was $35 on Huahine and $64 for 24 hours on Moorea.
  • A SCUBA tank fill from Top Dive was quoted at $30; it was $5-10 every place else we asked.
  • The same pareos selling for $20 at Tahiti's market place were $27-29 in Bora Bora.
Journey, our \Pearson 365 ketch, on a mooring ball at
Boa Bora's MaiKai Marina - only $50 for a week!
We've heard great reports on hanging out on the other side of Bora Bora, away from the main island, on the motu side of Bora Bora's lagoon ringing the entire island.  Beautiful coral, colorful tropical fish and leaping manta rays.  Sadly, we were more concerned about getting our ducks in a row before we set out for our next passages, without wifi and with a chance to set up a drop of U.S. internet ordered products in American Samoa.  Still, we do find it strange that the Bloody Mary Bar makes Trip Advisor's top 5 Bora Bora picks.  Just not our kinda island.


Location Location 
By the time this posts we expect to be in Maupiti, 30 miles outside Bora Bora French Polynesia. Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.  Our Mai Kai marina mooring ball was at S16.20.995 W151.45.388.

Thursday, July 23, 2015

Eating Orchids & Betcha You Do Too!

Vanilla flower - an orchid - in greenhouse
on Tahaa, French Polynesia.
What foodie could pass up a chance to check out an organic vanilla farm from the area that supplies the majority of vanilla for the world?

Vanilla greenhouse, Tahaa, French Polynesia.
Hand pollination is required for this vanilla crop.
Taha'a was the perfect stop to break up the passage between Huahine and Bora Bora.  Tahaa's atolls boat some great coral garden snorkeling.  But it was pouring when we were passing through and I'm a fair weather snorkeler as without good sunlight I find it hard to spot much reef life.


Closer view of  vanilla hand pollination process.
Vanilla beans ripening, slowly at a  Tahaa French Polynesian organic vanilla farm.
Taha’a is known as the "Vanilla Island" as it produces 70-80% of all French Polynesia's vanilla. While French Polynesia isn't considered one of the major volume player in the vanilla market, it's still important to Tahaa's culture and economy.  Click here to learn more about the evolution and role of vanilla in Tahaa.

Ripe vanilla beans at a Taha'a French Polynesian organic vanilla farm.
More pragmatically, sunshine is not required to enjoy vanilla, so I toured one of Tahaa's vanilla farms.

The vanilla didn't like the rain any better than I did,  Due to all the rain in this year's "dry season" current vanilla production is down 50% as compared to a good production year. 
It takes three months for ripe vanilla beans to dry.
 
Drying vanilla beans are hand straightened.














Nice POG )power of God) light from the mooring field
outside Hibiscus, Haamene Bay, Taha'a, French Polynesia.
Location Location

We're on our way to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. This is one of several catch-up blog posts to set to run while we're on passag, to American Samoa.  This post is a recent retrospective from our stop on July 14-16, 2015 on Tahaa (S16.38.713 W151.7.404).  We tied off to a mooring ball outside Hibiscus as Tahaa's Hamene Bay is very deep or far too shallow for anchoring.  The mooring ball was free though I paid a steep $30 for a round trip ride in the pouring rain from Hibiscus to the vanilla farm 7 km away.

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Different - French Polynesia Steering

Boat in local dock near Fare, Huahine, French Polynesia.
Wayne noticed in French Polynesia the local motor boats don't have steering wheels.  Instead they use more of a joystick.

We've not seen this before in our travels and wonder if it will remain unique to French Polynesia.








Typical seating area for Polynesian motor boats
with joystick steering.
.
Location Location 
By the time this posts we expect to be in Maupiti, 30 miles outside Bora Bora French Polynesia. Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.

Monday, July 20, 2015

Huahine: Kodacolor Delight!

Huahine Iti view, near a large marae.
For a mere $35 we rented a scooter for a half day* island tour of Huahine, French Polynesia.












Huahine high point a little above the prior photo. 
These colors are not photo-shopped!
Surfer inspiring waves just outside Huahine's protective reef.
For play, Huahine's simple beauty, friendly locals, relaxed pace and affordability, it's our favorite French Polynesian Society Island -- over Bora Bora, Tahiti and Moorea.  Kind of like a really comfortable pair of well-worn jeans that fit perfectly.  If that;s up your alley more than its glitzy neighbors, check out Huahine!







A more peaceful stretch of idyllic Huahine, French Polynesia.
Photos don't quite do this Huahine spot justice!
*Our scooter rental came from the little shop to the right of the Super U grocery store in Fare, Huahine.  It wasn't as comfortable as the Puegot Tweet scooters we rented in Moorea or Bora Bora but then they were almost twice the price.

Another stunningly beautiful Huahine overlook.
Want to see more of Huahine?  Check these posts
Tiki telephone
Blue-eyed eels of Huahine
Caution - coconuts ahead in Huahine
Location Location
We anchored outside Huahine's most populous town, Fare (S16.42.943 W151.02.321) and left there this morning. We're currently in Viatape, Bora Bora (S16.20.995 W151.45.388). That will be our last stop before our 90 day visa expires July 21st (unless we slip off to Maupiti first). Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.

Saturday, July 18, 2015

Tiki Telephone in Huahine

Huahine fishman gathering fish in his hand-cast net
and spearing his catch.
Huahine, a hundred or so miles from the big city of Papeete, Tahiti, is a humble, sweet, laid back French Polynesian island. 

Huahine buildings were unassuming single stories, fronted by neatly maintained yards, often supplemented with a  veggie garden.  Placid, reflective waters were dotted with centuries-old fishing traps.  We watched local fishermen casting and gathering nets by hand from vacas (native outrigger canoes).  The few fishing motor boats we saw were modestly sized.  Even the churches were the simplest we'd seen in French Polynesia.


Phone booths are common
throughout French Polynesia,
even in small remote
farming communities.
It's an island where ancient maraes (sacred gathering and ceremonial sites) are lovingly restored and scrupulously maintained.  

It's an island where we followed the Polynesian drum beat into a covered outdoor auditorium.  There families were spending their Sunday practicing traditional dance for an upcoming Heiva (month-long Polynesian cultural celebration) event.

We felt as if we'd been transported back in time, 50 years or more.  And yet..

When we passed a pay phone with a tiki icon, I made Wayne double back on our rented scooter.  Yes, even in Huahine we saw many locals using their smart phones, but a phone guy in tiki style?!?

Image outside Huahine phone booth.
At least it's not a smart phone and
the tiki's not taking a selfie.
Locally grown papayas for sale outside small rural Huahine market.
Note the incongrous snowy Santa Claus scene
on the made-in-China plastic tablecloth underneath?
No place is truly an island these days; even the island of Huahine.
Location Location
We anchored outside Huahine's most populous town, Fare (S16.42.943 W151.02.321) and left there this morning. We're currently in Viatape, Bora Bora (S16.20.995 W151.45.388). That will be our last stop before our 90 day visa expires July 21st (unless we slip off to Maupiti first). Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.

Friday, July 17, 2015

Caution! Coconuts A-Head in Huahine

Cutting a dashing figure under a Huahine
coconut tree, "safely" wearing my scooter helmet
and bulging fanny pack with its dangling camera case.
"Do not stand, sit, kiss or park under a coconut tree," Kevin, the Nuku Hiva Tahiti Crew agent sagely warned us when we rented a car through him.  It was nearly his only caution on a rugged island.

That's why when Wayne made the rare request to borrow my camera on our Huahine scooter road trip, I was surprised.  It didn't occur to me at the time I was 
  1. snapping photos while standing under a coconut tree, and (but?)
  2. still wearing my scooter helmet
"They told us in Fiji, the only people who get killed by getting hit on the head under the coconut tree are bad people," our cruising friend Patty of Armagh claimed.  

It reminded me of the line in "True Lies," when Jamie Lee Curtis, who just discovered her supposedly milk-toast husband, played by Arnold Schwatzenhager, is a CIA agent.  She asked, him "Do you kill people?"  Yes, he replied, "But only the bad ones."
Huahine local kindly proffers me
a coconut ready for drinking,

Instead, I just snickered, and asked Patty, "And you bought that?"

Seriously, much as I love coconuts (click here to learn about our coconut hunting pursuits) we do try to be careful about nonchalantly hanging out in in bombing range.

As well, Wayne shares my apprehension with using machetes to crack coconuts, though he's demonstrated some prowess there (click here for that).

Thus, when I noticed a Huahine work crew nearby slashing coconuts for their lunch refreshment, I asked if they'd be willing to share one.  Gallantly, they quickly proffered one up, its top machete-lopped off for my drinking pleasure.  

Glug! Glug! Glug! This thirsty Galley Wench
greedily drained the coconut.
Thirstily, I chugged it down, with great gusto and satisfaction.  The locals were unwilling to accept anything but my thank you for the coconut and their efforts.  In fact, all the locals we saw on our Huahine island tour were incredibly friendly and welcoming.

Once drained, I brought the coconut to the same place I noticed they'd put their empties.  

"Do you want the meat?" one fellow asked.  Sure, I replied and he pointed me to his machete.  I cluelessly started lining up a swing.  He stopped me, miming that my approach would've likely cut my foot off.  He took the machete, cut the coconut in four easy stokes, pulled out some meat and handed it over with a smile.

Again, I thanked him and asked if the group would allow me to snap a keepsake photo of them.  They seemed to enjoy it even more than I did.  

Friendly Huahine locals hamming it up for the camera.
Location Location 

We anchored outside Huahine's most populous town, Fare (S16.42.943 W151.02.321) as the starting point for our island scooter tour. We're currently on our way to Bora Bora. That will be our last stop before our 90 day visa expires July 21st. Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.

Thursday, July 16, 2015

Tiny Tahiti Rental Car: $90?!?

Our Tahiti car rental; like a real car, only smaller.
'Twas our last good day to blitz Tahiti; we'd decided to share a car rental with our cruising friends Steve and Patty of Armagh. The rental flyer noted car rentals were $55/day. The story when we called was different.

It's all we have left; $90, returned by 5 pm, whether you get it tonight or tomorrow. Someone else is it waiting for it. The flyer? Oh, that's an old one.... And this? It's a sports car' a convertible.... A discount for a 23 hour rental?!?” The EcoScooter agent smiled broadly, and chuckled. Bargaining is not part of the Polynesian culture, unless you consider “take it or leave it” bargaining.

Steve of Armagh and Wayne ogle the Mini-Cooper-like
Fiat engine of our EcoScooter of Tahiti rental car.
Can I get a t-shirt out of it then?” Wayne asked impertinently. Sure, the agent replied, again with a grin, “When you bring it back.”

We took the car.

Sports car or not, the car was SMALL. But peppy. While Patty's and my knees rested uncomfortably behind our ears for the ride, its gutsy motor was eager, akin to using a John Deere combine to mow a standard postage-sized suburban lot. Fortunately, it was also far more nimble, to Wayne's driving delight. Given that it poured, we didn't bother to try to take advantage of the car's convertible features.

We rushed to return by 5. A different agent met us; he wasn't even expecting the car. Eventually, he checked us out. He was there to check in another car.

Do I get my t-shirt?” Wayne waggishly asked. This agent, too, grinned, and mimed the removal of his shirt off his rather ample body. Wayne didn't get his t-shirt, or his discount.

Ah well.

As for me, I appreciate and respect the straightforward Polynesian approach, even when it doesn't get me what I want. 

Location Location
These photos were taken when we anchored at Tahiti's Tiana Marina in Fa'a (S17.35.163 W149.37.197). We went to Tiana to meet the rigger who worked there, as he provided us with the turnbuckle we needed to reconnect our mizzen's triatic stay. Laced with an extensive network of shallow reefs broken by small pockets of deep water and packed with boats anchoring far too close for us, we did not like Tiana anchorage.  This post is a catch-up as we're now in Tahaa (S16.38.713 W151.27.404) on our way to Bora Bora before our French Poly visa runs out on July 21, 2015.
 

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Serious Grocery Gams in Tahiti

Little lambs might eat ivy, but it takes a serious appetite to polish
off one of these babies – and/or a BIG home freezer.  Frozen legs
o' lamb are a fairly common sight in French Polynesian
Society Island grocery stores.
The grocery security guy looked askance when I returned in through Tahiti Carefour's out section, blithely unlocking the gate myself to re-enter. It's a good thing he wasn't following me as I slipped in one last photo that tickled my fancy in the frozen foods section. There, I propped my leg upon the freezer top, for scale....


The “English” name of these candies in
the French Poly Carefour amused me.




Nice view of the hillsides adjacent to marina Tiana.
Location Location
These photos were taken when we anchored at Tahiti's Tiana Marina in Fa'a (S17.35.163 W149.37.197). We went to Tiana to meet the rigger who worked there, as he provided us with the turnbuckle we needed to reconnect our mizzen's triatic stay. Laced with an extensive network of shallow reefs broken by small pockets of deep water and packed with boats anchoring far too close for us, we did not like Tiana anchorage.  This post is a catch-up as we're now in Tahaa (S16.38.713 W151.27.404) on our way to Bora Bora before our French Poly visa runs out on July 21, 2015.

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Blue-Eyed Eels of Huahine

Honestly, these whimsical graffiti versions of Huahine's
blue-eyed eels were more charming that the real deal.
Where the heck are they? Are they just pulling our leg? HOLY CRAP! There's one right here and it's HUGE!” I exclaimed, urging Wayne over to see it.

Several guidebooks extolled the wonder of the sacred blue-eyed eels, in the river of Faie on Huahine. Intrigued, we rented a scooter traversing the island to find them.

I'd envisioned a broad meandering river, fecund in a jungle setting, something we could wade into or swim, teeming with eels, maybe a foot or two long. We didn't expect “the river” to be essentially a steep walled, shallow-filled concrete drainage ditch. It was.

It was tough to get decent photos as we were several feet above them,
and the water above them was clear, but very reflective.
The first eel I saw was about 5-6 feet long, and plump, at least a half a foot wide, and practically bulging out of the shallow water as it undulated along.

Scanning the water, Wayne found a cluster of a dozen or so, just poking their heads out from under a ledge. Much like the iguanas and sea lions of Galapagos, they formed a big puppy pile, jostling amongst each other. Unlike the more amiable Galapagos communes, these fishy fellas snapped at each other. Indeed, their tiny, glassy-looking eyes were azure blue; a definite contrast to their mud-colored bodies.

Huahine is worth a visit not for the blue-eyed eels, but for its laid-back charm, stunningly beautiful waters, interesting archaeological sites and friendly locals. Sure, check out the eels; we're grateful they inspired us to get a good look at my favorite of the Society Islands to date.

Chairs set up for Huahine's Heiva Festival outrigger races.
Anchorage outside the town of Fare in the background.
Location Location
We anchored outside Huahine's most populous town, Fare (S16.42.943 W151.02.321) and left there this morning. We're currently anchored in Tahaa's Haamene Bay, French Polynesia(S16.38.713 W151.27.404) on our way to Bora Bora. That will be our last stop before our 90 day visa expires July 21st. Then it's on to Tonga with a stop in American Samoa and potentially Cook's Suwarrow on the way. Will set several catch-up blog posts to run while we're on passage, internet permitting.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Tahiti: Blocked Waterfall Trail

Steve, stepping over the chained bridge, blocking a Tahiti waterfall trail.
What do you do when you allot but one day to blitz all of Tahiti? We followed the road that hugs the Pacific, with the helpful map-matched kilometer markers along the way. We poured over our tour books, for interesting stops we could make quickly....

For us, no island tour is compete without at least attempting one waterfall hike, if one exists. Click here for our favorite waterfall hike to date, in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, and here for our most memorable waterfall hike in Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas.

As you can see are not easily dissuaded....

We regret not exploring the harder (more time consuming to reach) waterfalls of Tahiti's verdant interior. Shhh.... Truth be told, it's tough to beat the waterfall and trails of that other rain forest we hail from, the Pacific Northwest of Oregon and Washington states. Here, though, even cold waterfall pools are not snow-fed. We still haven't quite gotten used to that, but we are determined to keep trying the waterfalls of the South Pacific.

Couldn't quite fit this whole tall Tahiti waterfall in the photo!
Location Location
This was written while in Cook's Bay Mo'orea, French Polynesia (S17.30.310 W149.49.207). . This was set to post while we're en route to Huahine. We plan make Bora Bora our last stop in French Polynesia as our standard 90 day visa expires, July 21st.  After that we're off to American Samoa with a rest stop at Suwarrow, Cook Islands along the way, weather permitting.

Sidenote
Please excuse these less than stellar photos. My Macintosh is dead; this is created using Wayne's PC laptop with minimal image editing software (no iPhoto images). The plan is to replace my Mac when we get to American Samoa. That will likely be early August.  Still taking photos and on our adventures so watch for lots of catch up stories and images (and eventually, video -- lots of short clips)! All photos taken prior to Tahiti are resting comfortably on my former Mac hard drive and backup, just waiting to be accessed again.

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Short Sheeted: Bedtime Bliss Lost in Translation

Here's the drawing of our bedtime desires -- sheets that fit!
Dreaming of South Seas adventures in exotic foreign countries, wondering if your dreams will ever come true?

Perhaps this will help you feel better about where you are now, where night-time likely finds you curled up in your comfy bed....

Ours is shaped like a slice of pie, with our four feet battling – err – cuddling in a space well less two feet.Still, it's far bed-der than it used to be!  Click here to find out why.

The widest part of our bed is about queen sized, though often “deep pocket” fitted sheets won't cover it. It's not exactly well suited to “off-the-shelf” sheets. Most nights, our fitted bottom sheet pops off, bunching up and leaving a stretch of our mattress bare.

As I don't sew, getting custom sheets has been on my to-do list for a long time. When I did get around to looking into it, there were always so many other expenses, I balked at the price.

Finally, after nearly three years, the time arrived to do something about it. The last straw was the tears along second stretch of duct tape on the one fitted sheet that usually stayed. A friend offered to sew the tears, but it was clear to us the fabric was simple disintegrating.

The canvas guy we tapped to repair our dodger declined, noting “French Polynesia's trained many sewers. There's so many they're far less expensive than I could be, and their machines are better suited to that kind of fabric.”

Our friend Patty of Armagh loaned me her boating sewing project book, which advised a template. Wayne drew one up with me on clear plastic, based on the measurements we took of our bed. The measurements were recorded on a drawing, in both inches and metric.

The pattern of our desires.  Unused and in this case, unfulfilled.
I brought our template, the drawings and some fabric to the Pape'ete,Tahiti to a couple fabric shops, figuring they either offered those services or knew customers they could recommend for the work. After much waiting, they suggested checking with vendors in the adjacent open air marketplace. Eventually, one of the vendors said “Maybe.” She took my drawing and fabric, after telling me how much more to get and where. She was not interested in the template, but promised to get back to me if her mother-in-in-law agreed to take on the project.

As is nearly always the case, the project straddled a holiday weekend; which there are no shortage of in French territories. Tuesday rolled around and with great hope, I returned to the marketplace to collect the finished sheets. I never even got a quote. I just didn't care anymore.

In the interim, I found a stretchy fitted queen-sized jersey cotton sheet for about $12 and bought it to get us by for a few days. Amazingly, it fit!

Maybe” became “No,” but she connected me with another vendor whose sister-in-law would take on the project.

Final result?  The darker blue is the custom-sewn fitted sheet.  Oops!
Your bed is really small!” exclaimed the vendor, whose sister-in-law eventually showed up with the sheets. I agreed, paid, and headed back to the boat, sheets in tow.

The top sheets were perfect. The bottom sheets? Not even close. Miniscule.

Was the problem my poor French and their poor English? The drawings? A gross error between imperial and metric? Dunno. Lost in translation, all I know is we got short-sheeted,

For about $170 in extra fabric and labor, we have a great supply of rags.

I bought two more of those $12 cotton jersey fitted sheets.

Is it any wonder while you may fantasize about sailing the South Seas, our latest shared fantasy is about clean white sheets that fit, in a bed with more than 2 1/2 of headroom if we are not laying down?  

Yeah, we have it tough.

Mo'orea, French Polynesia.  Moody and beautiful.  There are worse places to be "stuck."
Location Location

We are in beautiful Cook's Bay Mo'orea, French Polynesia (S17.30.310 W149.49.207).  As our French Polynesia visa is the standard 90 day visa, ours will run out July 21st. We're head out tonight, hopefully (we've been delayed due to being a bit under the weather) for an overnight sail to Huahine, then finish in nearby Bora Bora before we leave French Polynesia.  After that we're off to American Samoa with a rest stop at Suwarrow, Cook Islands along the way, weather permitting.


Sidenote

Please excuse these less than stellar photos. My Macintosh is dead; this is created using Wayne's PC laptop with minimal image editing software (no iPhoto images). The plan is to replace my Mac when we get to American Samoa. That will likely be early August.  Still taking photos and on our adventures so watch for lots of catch up stories and images (and eventually, video -- lots of short clips)!