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Castries sidewalk crossed this section which smelled worse than it looks. St. Lucia marked my introduction to the peculiar stink Carribean waterways often exude. |
Ever
the budget cruisers, when anchored, we tend to walk a lot.
There’s
no car on the boat. We’re usually too cheap to rent a car or taxi. We’re not
willing to commit our meager space to accommodate a cycle, motorized or
otherwise, though we’ve debated about it. Busses, when available, are appreciated when we’re
going far enough to make it worth our while, and they’re going where we want to
go, or at least getting us close.
Most
often, we walk for reprovisioning – grocery runs or farmers markets when we’re
lucky. Sometimes it’s for fun, exercise and exploration. Unfortunately some of our longest,
hottest, dustiest and most frustrating walks are for boat maintenance and
repairs.
Given
all that walking, we’ve noticed distinct territorial differences when it comes
to sidewalks.
Worst: British Territories
Stinking
effluent running under or alongside broken concrete sidewalks, street shoulders
and urban footpaths are typical of our strolling experience in current or
former British territories.
Downright unpleasant. These
include St. Lucia, Dominica, Antigua, St. Kitts, St. Johns (US but the British
influence appears more dominant than US intrafstructure, perhaps due to its
smaller populace).
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Gustavia, St. Barts, the best sidewalk we saw in French Territory. |
Most Abused: French Territories
Usually,
in French Territories there are no sidewalks, except for Oceanside
promenades. When there are
sidewalks, they become multipurpose spaces… for trashcans on sidewalks narrow
enough to push you back out to the street, or for parking – not next to them –
on them. Of course, if you
sidestep a trash can and step into the street, as we often had to do in St.
Pierre on Guadeloupe, you will get “beeped” by passing drivers to get back on
the sidewalk.
Robust: United States Territories
Big. Broad. Solid.
Prevalent. Bordered by
strip malls, fast food franchises, apartment complexes, all with ample parking
lots, with plenty of room for cars speeding by on wide roads to park,
eventually. Sidewalks in St.
Thomas reminded us were back in US territory. The sidewalks, the main thoroughfares like the construction, looked like they
were built to robust, high use, industrial standards. Ugly, but very very functional. Much like driving down Highway I-5, not very inspiring, but
efficient. Like a McDonald’s, you
knew what to expect.
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Typical downtown sidewalk in Charlotte Amalie St. Thomas’ busy general retail main drag. Notice driving is on the left hand side of the street? True, despite US territory status. |
There’s No Place Like Home
For
better or worse, the sidewalks and traffic made us feel like we’re back home,
in the U.S., sort of. That is,
unless you want to replace the arm that props open a boat hatch from a mail
order company that refuses to mail anywhere outside the contiguous US. Or if you’re used to drivers on the
right hand side of the road.
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