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Bushy's service station outside Jolly Harbour Antigua. |
Bulk
rum? We were intrigued by a place
described in our guidebook as “bring your jugs and they’ll fill them,” even
though it also said “for hardened drinkers.” Why the heck not?
As long as it was cheap enough and we could try it before we bought.
Confession: I was intrigued and managed to talk
Wayne into it, though initially he was convinced it would be a wild goose
chase. We’ve had a few. The boxed white “Agricole” rum he’d
bought in Martinique I considered undrinkable* and Wayne finally finished.
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Pretty basic, but that's part of the adventure. In any case, we knew we came to the right place for rum. |
*I
am not alone in my dislike for white “Agricole” rum. One of our cruiser friends,
Kim Dickenson of Bella Blue, asked if the Agricole was made of grass. Nope, just really high Everclear-like
alcohol levels (okay not quite that high my chemist husband insists) in the
French signature style.
Besides,
we were in Jolly Harbour, which seemed like a dandy namesake for just this kind
of endeavor.
Our
guidebook instructed “Go the main road and turn left.… It’s across from the
service station out of town.” We weren’t sure what the main road was. We
weren’t how far out of town it was.
We weren’t even sure this place still existed, a not uncommon fate of
businesses mentioned in our guidebook.
We were parked at a customs dock and didn’t want to overstay our welcome
there, and still had a food provisioning stop to make. After a lot of asking
around, off we went.
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Again, nothing fancy.... |
Along
the way we hopped a local bus, though in retrospect figure we could’ve walked
the whole distance, one way, in 20-30 minutes. We knew we came to the right
place when we saw a glass display case with motor oil and booze outside. The building also housed the town post
office.
Inside
on the shelves behind the counter were more bottles of motor oil and gallon
jugs of “no name” booze as well as fifths of gin and half gallons and a couple
other liquors. “Can I help you? almost
imperiously asked a trim, mildly grizzled older gent behind the counter.
“We’re
here to buy your bulk rum; we heard about it in our guide book. Can we try it first?”
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Did I mention nothing fancy? But Bushy definitely knows his stuff. His rum is very good... and very cheap. |
Bushy
(or John, but “everyone calls me bushy”) grabbed a glass gallon jug of dark “matured”
rum and a glass and poured in a quick splash. I’m guessing if I wanted to taste it, he must have assumed I
was not interested in the white Agricole variety, as he had jugs of that as
well.
“This
is really good!” I exclaimed, meaning it truly. It was smooth, yet flavorful and hearty [undoubtedly I’ll
develop a better and more descriptive spirits vocabulary!]. I like it better than Cavalier.”
“Been
making this stuff for 17 years.
I’m the only one doing it myself here in Southern Antigua,” Bushy said,
with a sort of quiet pride.
“How
much?” we asked, pulling out our two empty half-gallon plastic jugs of Cavalier
rum.
“$40
EC,” Bushy replied.
That’s
about $13 USD for a gallon on good, sip-worthy rum, a couple buck less than
Cavalier, and we like it better.
My only regret? We weren’t
in such a rush and could buy more.
“We’ll
take it!”
Out
came the funnel and away Bushy poured, sending us off with five juicy-sweet
Caribbean limes as a surprise.
We’re
saving some Cavalier as a blind taste test with some other cruisers, whenever
our next as yet unplanned sundowner happens. The challenge will be making sure we save some of Bushy’s
rum that long, too.
Glad this one turned out to not be a wild goose chase :) Ethereal
ReplyDeleteDeliciously not a wild good chase. Heartily recommended for anyone lucky enough to make it out to Jolly Harbour Antigua... or, out our way while we still have some left. Happy to share.
ReplyDeleteEnjoy the rum and I look forward to your adventures. Carolyn
ReplyDeleteThanks, Carolyn. We're already wishing we bought more;). No, we haven't finished it off yet.
DeleteWe're still looking for someone to share it with.
Want to join us?